Sewing With Wovens

Hi there! I’m Alexis, and I’m all about that woven fabric life. My personal quilt collection is packed with wovens, whether they’re the star of the show or little accents like binding. There’s something magical about that loose weave—the fabric feels soft, cozy, and like it’s been a part of your life forever.

But let me tell you, wovens can be a little wild to work with. I learned the hard way (more than once!) that they require a bit more love. So, I’m here to save you some frustration by sharing my favorite tips and tricks. Grab a coffee, and let’s dive into the world of wovens together!

Step 1: Preparation

To Prewash or Not?
Here’s the deal: prewashing is totally up to you. I’ve never prewashed my quilting cottons, including wovens, but I know some hardcore quilters who swear by it. They say it reduces fraying and makes the fabric easier to manage. I’m not sold on it for myself, but hey, maybe it’s worth a try if you’re curious.

The main thing is, don’t feel pressured to prewash. Quilting’s all about finding what works for you, so experiment a bit if you’re interested, and stick with what feels right.

Starch
If I’m working a woven into a quilt block, you can bet I’m busting out the starch. I usually grab a can of Faultless spray starch from Target or Walmart. This stuff is a game-changer—it smooths out wrinkles and gives the fabric a bit of backbone, so it’s less likely to shift on you while you sew.

I like to spray both sides of the fabric lightly, let it sit for a sec, then press with a hot iron. It shrinks the fibers just enough to make them easier to manage. And trust me, when you’re handling wovens, you want all the help you can get.

Tip: Always starch fabric in yardage before you subcut. Starching after you cut into individual pieces will cause construction issues as your pieces have shrunk and are no longer the required pattern size.

Step 2: Construction

Shorten Your Stitch Length
First things first: tighten up that stitch! I set mine to about 1.6–1.8. This keeps those seams nice and snug, which is essential with wovens since they can be a little loosey-goosey. Plus, a tighter stitch means you’re less likely to end up with any surprise popped seams down the road.

Use a Leader
Here’s a tip that’s saved my sanity more than once: use a leader fabric. Wovens have a floppy nature (we’ve all been there), and they can slip under the presser foot or even get sucked into the machine. Not fun.

A leader—a little scrap piece of fabric you sew through before the real deal—keeps your woven pieces steady as they go under the needle. For extra insurance, switch to a single-hole plate on your sewing machine, too. Trust me, these little hacks are worth their weight in gold.

Sew Slowly
I know, I know. Sometimes you just want to get into the groove and sew at warp speed. But when it comes to wovens, take it slow. A loose weave and a short stitch length mean seam ripping is no picnic, so accuracy is key. Slowing down helps you hit those seams just right the first time, so you don’t have to deal with the hassle of picking them out.

Chain Stitch Whenever Possible
If you’re not chain stitching, you’re missing out! This is a lifesaver for keeping things moving while minimizing the chance of shifting fabric. By sewing pieces in a continuous chain, you’re saving yourself the headache of constantly re-aligning the fabric under the needle. Think of it as a conveyor belt of quilting happiness.

Pin, Pin, Pin!
I’m the first to admit—I’m not usually big on pinning. It slows me down, and I like to live on the edge. But when wovens are involved, I go pin-crazy. These fabrics have a mind of their own, so pinning keeps things right where you want them. Plus, it helps ensure you don’t miss any crucial points, so you can avoid the dreaded seam ripper.

Press Seams Open
Press those seams open, and you’ll be thanking yourself later. Wovens are bulky, and pressing seams open helps them lay flat as a pancake. It might seem counterintuitive, but pressing open makes a huge difference in reducing bulk and preventing weird puckers. Bonus: your longarm quilter will appreciate it, too!

Handle with Care
Look, wovens are delicate creatures. The less you mess with them, the better. Excessive handling can lead to fraying, so try to keep the touching to a minimum. If you need to move your project, slip it into a plastic bag or box to avoid snagging and fraying. Treat your wovens like the precious beings they are!

Step 3: Finishing

Victory Lap
Now for the grand finale: a victory lap! This is a row of stitching around the edges of your quilt top with a 1/8 seam allowance to lock everything in place. I keep the stitch length short here too—about 1.6–1.8—to prevent fraying. You’ve put a lot of work into this, so protect those edges with a quick lap around the border.

Dense Quilting
Here’s where wovens really shine: dense quilting. I love how the texture pops when you quilt wovens tightly. It adds so much character and gives the fabric that signature crinkled look we all adore. Dense quilting also provides extra insurance for durability, so you don’t have to worry about seams going rogue.

Quilt pattern is Eloise by Penelope Handmade 

Do Not Pull Threads
If you see a thread poking out, resist the urge to yank it! Wovens have a low thread count, so pulling could compromise the seam. Instead, snip it with scissors. Seriously, I’m a constant thread picker, but I make an exception for wovens. Trust me, it’s not worth the risk.

Phew! That’s a lot, but now you’re armed and ready to tackle those wovens like a pro. I hope these tips give you the confidence to take on your next project with a little less worry and a lot more excitement.

Happy sewing,
Alexis